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 It would be libellous to accuse the name-badge-wearing staff, willing though they were, of being overtrained. The response of one, when asked for the wine list, was a startled “Excuse me, sir?”, as if we had inquired after the price of a vortex manipulator. When another waiter brought our 37-minute wait for glasses of sauvignon blanc to an end, my friend celebrated by offering some pithy insights about the Higgs boson. Clearly this place rubs off more on some punters than on others.